By Anne Gilbert
Antique hat pins are not only an interesting collectible but still a useful fashion accessory for hat wearers. Some from the Victorian era with sometimes two inch pins can be a protective weapon as well.
While stick pins have long been out of fashion for men, a grouping, when framed can be an interesting accessory .
Both hat pins and stick pins show up at jewelry auctions. When they are topped with precious or semi-precious stones on gold pins they can cost as much as a thousand dollars.
At a recent Skinner jewelry auction a gold stick pin with a black opal, in an Art Nouveau design was estimated at $1,000. However, interesting examples with metal stems and fake gem stones can cost under $100. Even less when found at a garage sale.
Historically, stick pins were in use as early as the 18th century. In France, women used them to hold scarves in place. Men used them as cravat and scarf holders. Those early versions were oval bands with a single bar attached. In those days they were considered as jewelry and resembled a brooch decorated with semi precious stones. By the early 19th century the brooch had become a stick pin. Those with the heads in the form of a fox or hound were used on hunting scarves.
Collectors look for the designs of the 1890s and into the 1920s, when they were at their peak of designer creativity. During the Edwardian era(1901-1910) not only precious metals and gems were used on stick pins and hat pins, but figural motifs were set with semi-precious stones as well.
The Art Nouveau influence resulted in some of the most beautiful examples. Human heads, mythological beings, flowers and butterflies combined with a variety of metals, enamel, glass, shells and crystal.
Some can be quite eccentric, such as the use of actual hard-shelled beetles set in gold. And then, there are dog portraits painted on enamel. These were popular with the British who are known for pet portraits.
Considering the craftsmanship that shows in the intricately carved stones, cameos and mosaic designs, some pieces are a bargain.
CLUES: There are reproductions waiting to stick-it-to-you. Look on the reverse side to see if the long pin is connected to a round patch, then soldered to a decorative old button, stud or cuff link. There are also new copies around. An important clue to age and authenticity is the quality of the workmanship. Cameos should be deeply cut and detailed, as should carved gem stones.
Since hat pins and stick pins followed current fashion influences of their eras, you can expect to find them in everything from Satsuma porcelain to hand painted china and Egyptian Revival motifs.
If you go for the look of plain gems, like a big diamond, you can get the effect el cheapo. Sears Roebuck sold stick pins and hat pins with heads of fake rubies, amber and diamonds.
Stick pins went out of fashion in the 1930s, replaced by tie bars.
PHOTO CAPTIONS: (1) Art Nouveau stick pin. Gold with black opal. (2) \Art Deco stick pin. Diamond with faux saphire.
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